A Universal Guide to Pruning Fruit Trees – Part 2: Shortening Shoots and Promoting Fruiting

In the first part, we relieved the tree of everything that was harming it and created an airy, healthy canopy. Now comes the more delicate, but equally important work: deciding how much to shorten the new one-year-old shoots.

The intensity of this cut directly influences whether the tree will invest its energy more into growing new wood or into forming flower buds and fruit in the upcoming season. It is the art of conducting the future of your harvest.

The Psychology of the Tree: How It Responds to Shortening Shoots

Imagine a new shoot as a battery with buds. The top bud has the greatest strength to grow (so-called apical dominance). The buds just below it are also strong. The buds in the middle and lower parts are weaker and more often turn into flower buds. With the intensity of the cut, we directly influence which buds we "awaken".

Cut Intensity and Its Effect

A - No Cut:
A single strong shoot grows from the terminal bud. Most lateral buds below it turn into flower buds.
Result: Maximum promotion of fruiting, minimal growth.

B - Moderate Cut (by 1/4 to 1/3):
A leading shoot and 1-2 weaker side shoots emerge. Fruiting wood forms in the middle section.
Result: The ideal balance between growth and fruiting. The gold standard.

C - Medium-Strong Cut (by 1/2 to 2/3):
The tree responds with stronger growth. Several strong, competing shoots are formed.
Result: More growth promotion, less fruiting promotion.

D - Deep Cut (by 3/4):
An extremely strong growth response. Only vigorous vegetative shoots (watersprouts) grow from the buds.
Result: Maximum growth promotion, suppression of fruiting. (Use only for rejuvenation!)

Practical Procedure: Pruning Young and Bearing Trees

1. Training Pruning (Young Trees, 1st–4th Year)

  • Goal: To build a strong and airy canopy.
  • Procedure: Shorten all one-year-old shoots that you have chosen as extensions of the main branches with a medium-strong cut (by 2/3) to an outward-facing bud. Shorten the central leader with a moderate cut (by 1/3).

2. Maintenance Pruning (Bearing Trees)

  • Goal: To maintain the balance between growth and fruiting.
  • Procedure: Shorten the leading shoots on the main branches with a moderate cut (by 1/3). Leave weaker side shoots uncut or just tip them slightly.

The School of Proper Pruning: Avoid These Mistakes!

Incorrect pruning technique can damage the tree. Here are the most common mistakes and the correct procedure.

MISTAKE A: Cutting Too High ("Coat Hanger")

The stub left above the bud will die back and become an entry point for diseases.

MISTAKE B: Incorrect Angle (Towards the Bud)

Water runs directly into the bud, causing rot and infections.

MISTAKE C: Cutting Too Low and Steep

The cut damages the bud, which then dries out and fails to sprout.

CORRECT TECHNIQUE D: The Ideal Cut

The cut is made about 5-8 mm above the bud at a slight angle (approx. 45°) sloping away from the bud. This protects the bud and allows the wound to heal quickly.

Bonus: Where to Look for Fruit? The Age of Fruiting Wood

  • Pome Fruits (Apples, Pears): The main crop is on two-year-old and older wood (short fruiting spurs, thorns).
  • Stone Fruits (Peaches, Apricots): They bear fruit mainly on one-year-old shoots. Older wood is unproductive.
  • Plums, Cherries, Sour Cherries: A combination of both—they bear on two-year-old and older wood, but some varieties also on one-year-old shoots.
 

Conclusion and Personal Opinion

Remember two basic lengths: 2/3 and 1/3. If you need to promote growth (young trees), cut back by 2/3. If you want to promote fruiting (bearing trees), shorten by 1/3.

By combining the maintenance pruning from the first part with the correct shortening of shoots from this part, you have a complete toolset to keep your fruit trees in great condition.

What pruning technique do you use most often? Share your tips in the comments!